Dunleith Historic Inn

Snowflakes were falling as we loaded up the truck and headed south.  Holt and I were embarking on another weekend adventure.  On this occasion we were going back in time.  Well, that’s what it felt like, anyway.  Five hours and a Lee Child book-on-tape later, we were arriving at Dunleith Historic Inn in Natchez, Mississippi. 

                                                                     

The majestic home was built in 1856 and sits on 40 immaculate acres.  Also on the property are an original 1790’s carriage house, dairy barn, poultry house, greenhouse and a three-story brick dependency.  The carriage house is now home to the fantastic Castle Restaurant & Pub.  The charming dairy barn is a 3 bedroom cottage available to overnight guests, and the dependency has been recently renovated to hold 8 additional guest rooms.

                                                                      

                                        

We were lucky enough to stay in the main building, which was built in the Greek revival design, is supported by 26 Tuscan columns, and offers wide, wraparound porches lined with rocking chairs.  Our room was breathtaking.  The furnishings reminded me of Downton Abbey and the Biltmore Estate, but we were allowed to touch them!  Floor to ceiling curtains hid antique glass windows, and a beautiful wooden free standing mirror reflected our sheepish grins.

                                                                        

We were so enamored by the room, it took a while for us to notice the wine and chocolate-covered strawberries awaiting our arrival.  We sipped Chateau St. Michelle Riesling and dined on the strawberries.  Ok mostly, I dined on the strawberries. 

                                                                              

Our gracious bellhops Aaron and Ronnie drove us downtown and recommended the Magnolia Bar and Grill for a late dinner.  Holt had the shrimp and grits, and he laughed as I ordered the fried shrimp po'boy.  We split a decadent fried green tomato.  It was a truly Southern evening.  The restaurant was located directly on the Mississippi River in an area the locals call “under the hill.”  We learned the meaning of the phrase as we trudged up a gigantic hill to get to Bowie’s Tavern.

                                                               

Bowie’s is located in historic downtown Natchez where the restored cotton warehouse looks out over the Mississippi. We sat at the hundred-year-old mahogany bar, had a drink, listened to the band, had a few more, and I finally got Holt out on the dance floor.  We swing danced and swayed until the bar closed down about 12:30.  I thought it was the perfect ending to an evening, but Holt was determined to paint the town. We followed the crowd to Andrews, a dive bar up the road.  Three hours later, with hugs all around from the locals we had met, we were calling a cab.  Unfortunately, the two cabs in all of Natchez weren't answering their phones at 3:30 in the morning, so we walked.  We got an intimate, albeit eerie, tour of the old homes surrounding downtown Natchez as we walked the mile back to Dunleith.  

                                                                   

Resisting the urge to spend all of Saturday in the rocking chairs on the porch, we headed off to downtown Natchez (this time with a car).  We peeked in some antique stores, checked out Bowie’s Outfitters, and visited a few eccentric stores—one had the largest collection of rubber ducks I've ever seen.  We sampled Darby’s almost famous fudge and splurged on malts from the appropriately named Malt Shop.   

The original wrought iron still lines the porches at Dunleith

All of this shopping and eating ended with a perfect afternoon nap surrounded by down pillows and incredibly soft sheets.  Holt woke me up just in time to have drinks and hors d’oeuvres downstairs in one of the parlors.  After meeting some other guests and enjoying a conversation with Dustin, the bartender, we strolled to the Castle in time for our 7:00 reservation.  The host and our waitress were incredibly warm and accommodating.  A feast ensued.  We had scallops served over apple and fennel salad, a jumbo lump crabcake with jalapeno hollandaise, and stuffed oysters as appetizers.   I had the sautéed malple leaf duck breast, Holt devoured the mixed grill (tuna, scallops, and shrimp), and we split a blue cheese salad. Everything was perfect.

             

                                Fresh flowers were EVERYWHERE, including our bathroom                                    

Sunday came too soon.  The fresh coffee from the Keurig and smiling blooms in our bathroom eased my sorrows.  We strolled down the path to the Castle restaurant admiring the live oaks that arched over the drive.  By the time we had brunch I was all smiles.  The buffet of bacon, sausage, biscuits, gravy, cheese grits, potatoes, scrambled eggs, breakfast casserole, fruit salad, and an assortment of muffins and scones was extraordinary.  We spent the morning exploring the grounds, admiring the snapdragons and other flora, and taking photos.  Terry, the house historian, shared the history of the home and some of its furnishings.  

                                                                                             

By the afternoon, we were packing up and boarding our time machine to return to Memphis. We were reluctant to leave this little piece of paradise but cheered by the certainty that we would return.